‘Every Chef Should Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.

Tiffany Cook
Tiffany Cook

A seasoned business strategist and writer passionate about empowering others through innovative growth techniques and life lessons.